Ditch the shopping malls and skyscrapers and delve into the city’s rich cultural heritage with a visit to one of Hong Kong’s top five temples. Nowhere is better to learn all there is to know about the hopes, dreams, fears and superstitions of this city’s industrious urbanites – especially true during Chinese New Year and important lunar calendar festival dates. While some places of worship have been given a glossy new makeover, many of Hong Kong’s oldest temples have been serving as important community gathering points for hundreds of years.

5. Lam Tsuen Tin Hau Temple and Wishing Trees

[Also see our travel article “Five tips to find cheap flights to Hong Kong“]

This quaint collection of villages in Tai Po has been drawing visitors to its Tin Hau Temple and two wishing trees for hundreds of years. Traditionally, festival goers would write their wishes on joss paper and tie it to an orange, which was then tossed up towards one of the banyan tree’s highest boughs – the higher the branch the better the odds of your wish coming true! As the practice became more popular, authorities stepped in to help preserve the trees and visitors are now encouraged to tie wishes to wooden racks nearby instead. Steps away you’ll find a small Tin Hau temple, dedicated to the Goddess of the Sea, which can typically be found in any ancient fishing community in Hong Kong or along the Chinese coastline. Sit down with a fortune teller here if you want to find out about that wish.

4. Man Mo Temple

[Also see our travel article “10 Best Beaches in Hong Kong“]

Stepping into the Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road is like entering another world, a realm inhabited by the venerable deities of Man (God of Literature) and Mo (God of War) who are worshiped here. Rays of sunlight cut through the rising smoke of giant incense coils hanging low from the ceiling and down onto the altars of the 10 judges of the underworld. Make sure to take in all the details – the lines of descending green Shekwan roof tiles represent bamboo and longevity, while the antique sedan chairs inside were used to carry statues of the gods during festival processions.

3. Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery

[Also see our travel article “24 Hours in Hong Kong“]

Although calling itself a monastery, the name is a bit of a misnomer as there are no resident monks at this eclectic Sha Tin temple. Follow the steep winding path up the hillside, flanked by 500 life-sized Arhand statues to reach the main complex and its 9-story pagoda. Here you’ll supposedly find more than 13,000 Buddha statues – but at this point, who’s counting? – and a few bodhisattvas on horseback for good measure. The main attraction, however, is the preserved body of Yuet Kai, the monastery’s supremely devout founder. Embalmed in lacquer, plastered with gold leaf and dressed in robes, the upright body currently sits on display in a glass case inside the main monastery building.

2. Chi Lin Nunnery and Nan Lian Garden

[Also see our travel article “The Four Best Chinese Restaurants in Hong Kong“]

At Diamond Hill, only one subway stop away from the Wong Tai Sin temple, you’ll find the peaceful and serene Chi Lin Nunnery. In stark contrast to its colorful and brash Taoist neighbor, the Buddhist nunnery exudes calm and tranquility with smooth stone balustrades, lotus ponds and stunning wooden architecture. Inspired by Japanese and Tang Dynasty temples, the elegant series of halls and walkways were constructed without the use of nails, using a complex design of counterweights and dowels. Across the road, the Nan Lian Garden is a scenic oasis amid towering high-rise apartments looming up along the hillside. A relaxing stroll past ancient bonsai trees, koi ponds and meticulously landscaped gardens is the perfect antidote for those needing some time out from the hustle and bustle of the city.

1. Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple

[Also see our travel article “The Top 10 Reasons to Visit Hong Kong“]

 With its bold, red pillars and ornamental latticework, Wong Tai Sin displays all the qualities of the archetypal Taoist Chinese temple. Colorful and noisy, worshipers come year round to pray for good fortune and divine guidance from the “Great Immortal Wong.” Crowds flock here during the Chinese New Year to offer incense, make wishes and visit fortune tellers in hopes of an auspicious and prosperous year to come. Visiting the temple during this time may be interesting from a cultural perspective, but it is certainly not for the faint-hearted. Throngs of people push their way through the winding temple complex in a cloud of smoky incense towards the main altar and gather around stalls selling charms and amulets of all shapes and sizes. It is certainly a once in a lifetime experience, but alternatively, an early morning weekday visit will serve just fine.

Green hotels aren’t just huts on the beach — and if they are, these exceptionally modern green hotels have luxury in their corner. These ten are just a sampling of a stunning array of how far the eco culture has come and how it can provide a dreamy honeymoon or adrenaline-filled getaway for every type and budget.

10. Adrère Amellal: Desert Ecolodge, Siwa, Egypt

[Also see our travel article “Visiting the Ancient City of Luxor“]

Step way, way back in time at Adrère Amellal, where beeswax candles replace electric lights and the crisp desert nights stand in for air-conditioning. Set in the protected Siwa Oasis, the ecolodge was hand-built using a mixture of stone, salt water and clay, and blends into the shade of a giant yellow rock mountain. Except for the modern bathrooms and comfortable, locally made beds, the place looks like it hasn’t changed in thousands of years. Leave modernity behind while dining on local organic fruit and veg, and learn the value of an early bedtime and sunrise wake-up call.

9. Six Senses, Con Dao, Vietnam

Six Senses cares for its guests, the environment and its neighbors in equal measure, making it a truly guilt-free splurge. The hotel puts a portion of its mineral water sales towards building a clean water supply for the local school, buys its food from local vendors, and works with suppliers that share its views on sustainability. The family friendly hotel itself is built for maximum airflow, reducing the need for air-conditioning. Bikes are available for sightseeing. Golfers can even aim for the water, as the golf balls biodegrade in 48 hours and release fish food. The pools, crystalline waters and private atmosphere seal the deal for an unforgettable stay.

8. Tierra Patagonia, Torres del Paine, Chile

[Also see our travel article “Two Weeks in Chile“]

Set just outside Torres del Paine National Park, Tierra Patagonia is an eco haven for eco-adventurists. Quite impressively, the setup requires no air-conditioning in summer and barely any heating in winter. The soft curves of the hotel’s architecture juxtapose the jagged mountain peaks that dominate every window view. Lenga wood comes from a sustainable rainforest, and the majority of furniture is also locally made. Tierra Patagonia also plants one tree for every visitor, helping along the reforestation efforts after the January 2012 forest fire.

7. Whitepod, Aigle, Switzerland

Almost 4,600 feet above sea level and at the beginning of the Swiss Alps, White Pod features 15 igloo-esque pods that dot the pristine landscape. The pods are low-impact, and the resort puts a heavy emphasis on low electricity and water consumption, using renewable resources and educating guests on environmental protection. The airy pods come with a wood-burning stove and tons of natural light. Luxury is just a few steps away, with the main pod-house offering massages, a Finnish sauna and a Japanese bath. In the winter, skiing is obviously the main draw, along with dog sledding, treks and paragliding. The summer season offers hikes and dog karting, bringing a sense of summer camp to sustainable luxury.

6. Saffire Freycinet, Coles Bay, Tasmania

With colors and sweeping curves that reflect the landscape, Saffire Freycinet almost becomes one with the incredible views from every window. Between the on-site farm and nearby ones, local produce colors the extravagant meals. The resort planted 30,000 native plants to help restore the once-battered landscape, and the buildings, designed by a Tasmanian architect and filled with locally made furniture, limit light pollution and collect and conserve rainwater. One of the best (and most extravagant) ways of getting back to nature includes dining on fresh-caught oysters and sipping local white wine while still in the estuary.

5. Treehotel, Harads, Sweden

[Also see our “Travel Guide to Stockholm and its Top Attractions“]

Treehotel turns typical luxury a curveball with a unique, offbeat setup in the middle of nowhere. A few miles from a village of 500 and set in the middle of a forest, the hotel features five cabins, or rather, treehouses. Treehotel took great pains to build these cabins into the trees without disturbing the surrounding environment and allows visitors a one-of-a-kind experience without a giant carbon footprint. The wooden floors contain no trace chemicals, and each cabin features underfloor heating, LED-lighting, combustive toilets and hydroelectric power. In addition to a guilt-free stay in a UFO or cone-shaped or mirrored box cabin, visitors who pass through in the colder months can dine on the ice, snowshoe and possibly catch a showing of the aurora borealis.

4. San Camp, Kalahari Desert, Botswana

[Also see our travel article “The World’s Best Places to See Wildlife“]

San Camp provides five-star accommodation in an oasis on the decidedly less hospitable Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. Calling the six custom-built canvas lodges tents doesn’t fully define the romantic, elegant design among a surreal landscape. Each tent is made from sustainable Zimbabwean teak, and the furniture is crafted by local artisans. Solar energy powers almost the entire sight. Perhaps best of all, San Camp knows the value of leaving while they’re ahead — the camp packs up at the end of every dry season, leaving almost no trace behind except for the same tracks that every jeep uses on the way out to reduce land disruption.

3. Morgan’s Rock Hacienda and Ecolodge, San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua

Family owned and family and honeymooner-friendly Morgan’s Rock sits in the middle of a 4,000-acre jungle and next to a mile-long private beach. Sea turtles are a year-round staple, as are howler monkeys and sloths. In addition to ziplining through the pristine forest or getting tipsy on the beach, visitors can lend a hand with the daily operations by helping out at the organic farm in the morning and enjoying the fruits of their labor at the dinner table. Morgan’s Rock supplements its farm-to-table meals with food from local farms and vendors, which aligns nicely with its commitment to local education and preservation. The 15 three-sided bungalows that were constructed by a sustainable Managua-based company are an adventure in themselves, as they rest on cliff-side treetops across a suspension bridge.

2. h2hotel, Healdsburg, California, United States

From top to bottom, LEED gold certified h2hotel is a prime example of eco-friendly chic. Many of the building blocks were sourced from nearby, and 85% of the leftover debris was recycled. Minimalist yet cozy guest rooms contain bamboo flooring, organic sheets and towels, and glass carafes made from recycled wine bottles. Both the bar and restaurant source local food and drink for fresh and refreshing dining. Solar panels heat the pool and washrooms, and the living roof filters rainwater, some of which is then used in an art installation downstairs. Guests can further reduce their environmental impact by using the hotel’s complimentary bikes to visit the local wineries.

1. Chumbe Island Coral Park Eco-Bungalows, Zanzibar, Tanzania

Chumbe Island cleverly mixes rustic charm with a sort of ultra modern Robinson Crusoe-type adventure, with open-air bungalows, crystal clear snorkeling and a heavy emphasis on environmental education. The unpopulated island only accepts a maximum of 14 guests at a time, immediately giving the place an exclusive feel. The luxury, though, comes in the form of being next to one of the last unspoiled coral reefs in Africa and at being one with nature. The park maintains a strict standard of making almost zero impact on the surrounding land. This includes solar power, composting toilets and an impressive system of filtering rainwater for the washrooms and then cycling that out to nearby plants.

If you want to truly experience the English countryside, do it on foot!

In early May 1999, when our daughter Kelly was five, our family spent ten days in England. It was our first visit to the Cotswolds and our first experience walking in the English countryside. We stayed in a converted pig sty in the tiny village of Lower Swell. The owner of the inn suggested we could walk to the larger town at the top of the hill, with the delightful name of Stow-in-the-Wold. He gave us a little booklet with a map and directions told us we could take a “footpath” that started just down the narrow road.

We saw a footpath sign, opened a gate, and found ourselves on someone’s farm… in a field of sheep! Using the directions, we followed the clear path through the field, into the woods, and eventually reached the outskirts of Stow. On our two-mile walk, we climbed over a stile, crossed a little river, passed by a big manor house, and admired beautiful wildflowers.

This walk was a highlight of our ten-day trip, a look at the Cotswolds we would never have seen from the window of our car… a real experience. Kelly had a close encounter with a sheep, and Charley mastered climbing over a stile!

During the next few days I noticed many green signs along the country lanes indicating “Public Footpath.” It seemed there was a network of paths through the countryside, connecting all the quaint stone villages. Back at home I did more research and learned about the system of footpaths across all of Great Britain… actually across all of Europe. Three years later we returned to the Cotswolds for a 50-mile self-guided walking tour, the first of ten long-distance walking trips we’ve now completed in Europe. (This fall we’re headed off on number eleven, also in England: 100 miles on the Southwest Coast Path in Cornwall.)

Most people probably won’t pursue a multi-day walking trip in Europe, whether it’s 50 miles or 192 miles (the distance of the Coast-to-Coast trail across England, a walk Charley and I have done twice). But if you visit the English countryside—or the countryside in most other parts of Europe, I encourage you to take some sort of walk away from the villages, towns and cities. When you slow down and walk in the countryside, you’re surrounded by nature. You notice the small details and see how people live. Your mind is free to wander… I’ve had some of my best ideas while walking, and also some great conversations with my husband and walking companions. And of course it’s great exercise! to me, walking is the ultimate in “slow travel,” a chance to see an area up close and in slow motion.

Most of our European Experiences trips include an option for a walk of one to four miles. (We always have another activity for those who prefer not to walk.) For example, during our Luberon Experience week we offer a walk from our village of Bonnieux to the neighboring village of Lacoste, a gentle hike in the Cedar Forest on the top of the Petit Luberon mountain, and a more strenuous hike up into the ruins of the ancient Fort de Buoux and its ruined village.

But back to the Cotswolds, the area where my love of countryside walking began. Of course we have to include a walk or two in our Cotswolds Experience week! One of my favorite walks stretches about four miles on the famous Cotswold Way, a 102-mile national trail. After our group’s picnic at Fish Hill and a visit to Broadway Tower, our travelers have the option to walk from the tower back to our base village of Chipping Campden– or they can ride back in our vans and enjoy a final few hours in the village.

Although four miles may sound far, this walk is do-able for most people—even those who aren’t really walkers—because it’s level or downhill all the way. And this stretch of the Cotswold Way offers some of the most beautiful scenery along the entire 102 mile stretch. We do this walk with our groups on Friday afternoon, a fitting grand finale for our week. Depending on your pace and the number of stops you make to admire the scenery or take photos, this walk takes an hour and a half to two hours.

Join us as we walk this stretch of the Cotswolds Way…

Our walk begins at the Broadway Tower, the second highest point in the Cotswolds, with wide views across the Vale of Evesham and the surrounding countryside. On a clear day you might see over 60 miles! The 65-foot high tower was completed in 1798 for the Earl of Coventry; it’s a “folly,” just built for pleasure and decoration, not any defensive purpose. Looking toward the east, you can see the Cotswold Way trail heading off along the adjacent hillside.

Many of these photos are from one of our 2016 groups, when 10 enthusiastic group members joined me for the walk. It was a bit overcast on July 29, but a perfect day for walking.

As far back as the Middle Ages, the Cotswolds were known throughout Europe as the source of top-quality wool. The wool trade brought a lot of wealth to the area, resulting in many fine manor houses, churches and villages. Today there are still over 250,000 sheep in the Cotswolds, raised both for meat (lamb) and wool. Many of the footpaths pass through fields of grazing sheep.

The “countryside code” requires that you not interfere with the farm animals, keep your dog on a leash, and leave any gates as you found them. I enjoy walking in the pastures, especially among the sheep. (I don’t really like walking through a field of cows.)

As a national trail, the Cotswold Way is very well marked, including these wooden signposts. You can also look for an “acorn” symbol. We’ve now reached the picnic area at Fish Hill (where our group had lunch earlier in the afternoon). There are also public restrooms here!

This section of the trail passed through a few large field of wheat and other crops.

Finally we reached Dovers Hill (755 feet)… more sheep and more beautiful views. Dovers Hill is a natural amphitheater and there are traces of Roman activity here. This is also the site of the “Cotswold Olimpicks,” an annual celebration held here since the 1600’s and continuing today. The Olimpicks include unique events such as shin-kicking, morris dancing and tug-of-war. The games were founded by Robert Dover, a local attorney. Today the property is owned and managed by the National Trust. It’s a beautiful spot!

Finally, below us, we see the village of Chipping Campden. And then we spot the signpost, pointing the way to a narrow path. It’s downhill now, on a path, then a paved farm track, and then houses of golden stone on the outskirts of the village.

The walk continues now along the High Street until we reach the marker stone near the old market hall. Some people begin the 100 mile walk in Chipping Campden and travel south to Bath. Others begin in Bath and travel north to Chipping Campden. So the sign says “Cotswold Way. The beginning and the end.” The market hall is an appropriate landmark to finish our walk. Built in 1627 by Sir Baptist Hicks, it provided shelter for traders.

So when you visit to the Cotswolds, go for a walk in the countryside! Perhaps after your first walk– like our family– you’ll return to walk more in the Cotswolds. We walked 50 miles in 1999, the entire 102 miles of the Cotswold Way in 2013, and many shorter walks like the ones we include in our Cotswold Experience week. I’m excited to be back in the Cotswolds again this summer for the gardens, the history, the great food, the welcoming people… and I’m especially excited to walk again in the glorious countryside.

Charley and I want to extend special thanks to the Cotswold wardens, a group of over 350 volunteers who do so much to keep the Cotswolds special. They maintain the footpaths, repair drystone walls, install kissing gates, coordinate with farmers, and much more.

We’re still savoring the memories of our two recent groups in Alsace, a unique region of France located across the Rhine River from Germany. Alsace is a colorful, happy and prosperous region with about 32,000 acres of vineyards tumbling down the hillsides and the lower slopes of the Vosges mountains. The region is best known for its white wines: Rieslings, Sylvaners, and Gewurtzraminers, wines not produced anywhere else in France.

Our family made our first visit to Alsace in 1999, and this was our third year welcoming European Experiences groups to this beautiful and interesting area. We’re looking forward to our 2019 Alsace Experience week and will also offer this trip in 2020.

Despite the very cheerful environment today, the history of Alsace is a tumultuous one. The region shifted back and forth between Germany and France in three wars and has changed hands four times since 1870. Alsace was occupied by Nazi Germany in 1940, and 130,000 young Alsatian men were forcibly conscripted into the Nazi army against their will. Several villages in the area where our trip is based were destroyed or badly damaged during the three-month “Battle of the Colmar Pocket” from December 1944 to February 1945 before the area was fully liberated by the French and American forces. Alsace was returned to France after the war.

The people of this region have a strong identity as Alsatians but are very definitely French– not German! However, because of this unique history, visitors to this area experience both French and German influences in Alsace’s architecture, culture, cuisine, and traditions. It’s unlike any other part of France!

As our groups visit villages and towns in Alsace, they’re enchanted by the colorful and picturesque architecture, very Germanic in its style. Many people in our groups say the villages are like something in a fairy tale.

In the southern part of Alsace, most villages are surrounded by remains of medieval walls, pierced by gates and towers.

The villages were built with houses, wineries, shops, and the church (sometimes both a Catholic and a Protestant church) inside the walls. Public squares provided market and gathering places, often with public fountains.

Houses in the Alsace plains were traditionally positioned close together, each with an enclosed courtyard not directly accessible from the street. These courtyards once housed wine-making and farming activities or artisan workshops; today those that remain provide private gathering places for families and friends.

A typical Alsatian house is “half-timbered” and often includes symbols and decorations on porches, shutters, doors, and wood timbers. Hearts are especially popular.

Today regional authorities provide financial grants to homeowners who paint houses in a rich variety of colors to preserve the picturesque quality of Alsatian towns and villages.

Due to the climate, the roof of the typical Alsace property is usually steeply pitched (up to 60 degrees) and the typical roof is covered with flat clay tiles specific to Alsace and some neighboring areas of France.

Wood was frequently used in house construction because the Vosges mountains were nearby and wood was plentiful. However, fire was also a risk, so the ground floor was typically made of stone and the upper floors in half-timbering. In this type of construction, external and internal walls were constructed of timber frames of different designs and the spaces between the frames filled with materials such as brick, stone or plaster.

In many buildings, the second story has an overhang which provides slightly more floor space on the second story. A basement level provided a large wine cellar.

Some villages included chateaus within the walls; the village of Kientzheim where we base our trip had three!

Wealthy and powerful people had more elaborate houses with turrets, oriel window, and enclosed balconies. These houses often have intricate decorations on their exterior.

Today most of the villages and private homes are abundantly landscaped with flowers, adding to the colorful impression.

There may not be much grass inside the walled villages, but planters, pots, window boxes, and hanging baskets overflow with flowers. Geraniums are especially popular.

Many of the Alsatian towns and villages are recognized as a Ville or Village Fleuris (town or village “in bloom”) for their use of flowers, their landscaping, and overall cleanliness. This is a program Marga Sukelistered across France. The “Haute-Rhin” department where our Experience week is based has 158 villages recognized with this designation, each awarded one to four flowers. We visit 10 of these villages during our week.

Charley and I just returned from a month in Europe, arriving home late on Christmas Eve. For our first 15 days in Europe we researched and planned our new “European Christmas Experience” tour. We spent five nights each in Salzburg, Austria; Munich, Germany; and Colmar in Alsace, France. These will be the bases for the new 12-night tour we’ll offer in 2017.

For the last part of our trip, we stayed in our little second home in the village of Bonnieux in the Luberon region of Provence. We really enjoy the holiday season in Provence and the celebrations with our friends there. I’ve posted before about some Christmas traditions in Provence, so in this post I’ll focus on what travelers can expect in Salzburg, Munich and Alsace at this time of year and a preview of our 2017 tour.

We’ve been in Europe ten times in the month of December… we love it! This time of year in Europe is incredibly special, drawing on strong regional traditions. Creative decorations and colorful lights enhance the charm of medieval buildings. There’s a fairy-tale magic, evoking the Christmas of your dreams.

Christmas Markets

Christmas markets are a centuries-old tradition and are found across Europe in cities, towns, and villages. Some markets last more than a month and some just a weekend. Special events and entertainment are also offered. The markets draw locals, visitors from the region, and international tourists.

What can you expect at a European Christmas market? The major Christmas markets are typically outdoors and feature booths or chalets selling a wide variety of merchandise including holiday ornaments and decorations, nativity scenes, toys, gifts, handicrafts, takeaway food, and of course hot mulled wine (“glühwein” in German or “vin chaud” in French). There may be music and other entertainment, and games and special activities for children. Some markets feature only products made by local artisans. And there are even “theme” markets, such as medieval markets.

We decided to focus our Christmas trip

on three areas we know well, in three different countries and in three different kinds of home bases: in a large city (Munich), a small city (Salzburg), and a large town (Colmar). Each area offers a different environment and holiday experience.

Salzburg, Austria

Our family spent two Christmases in Salzburg (in 1999 and 2003), and Charley and I have also hosted two Salzkammergut Experience weeks in the nearby countryside. We were excited to make another winter trip to this beautiful city, nestled on either side of the Salzach River and surrounded by mountains. The baroque architecture, the impressive Hohensalzburg fortress on its hilltop, the many church towers, and the winding streets and narrow passageways add to the magical atmosphere.

Salzburg is idyllic at any time of year, but especially at Christmas. There are six Christkindlmarkts in the city, the largest spilling over two big squares around the Dom (cathedral). There is even a Christmas museum that explains the Christmas traditions and exhibits a big collection of historic Christmas items.

Salzburg has a strong musical heritage… after all, it’s the city of Mozart. We enjoyed two classical concerts during our stay, an experience we always pursue when we’re here.

Munich, Germany

I was born in Munich, and though I don’t have any memories of the city from my earliest days, this was my eighth trip back to this wonderful city. Munich’s tradition of Christmas markets has developed over hundreds of years. This year the city hosted seven different markets; we went to four, including the medieval market on the Wittlesbacherplatz. The most important Christmas market fills the Marienplatz, the big square in front of the city hall, and extends several blocks down the pedestrian street. The centerpiece is the 85-foot high Christmas tree, decorated with 3,000 lights. There are hundreds of colorful stands. (The glühwein stands were especially popular!)

We also enjoyed spending time at the Viktualienmarkt, Munich’s open-air food market, near the Marienplatz. It’s kind of a combination farmer’s market and gourmet food market with over 140 stands and shops. There’s even an Eataly nearby now. This isn’t an official Christmas market, but the many florist stands were all selling Christmas greenery, so there was definitely a festive atmosphere!

One day we took a train to the Bavarian Alps and visited the picturesque village of Mittenwald and the busier town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. We’ve stayed several times in this area and really enjoyed our day back in the Alps. We especially like the elaborately-painted houses, a technique called “luftlmalerei.”

Colmar, France

The Alsace Experience is our newest Experience week, and we’ve spent almost seven weeks there over past 18 months. For our Christmas trip we decided to stay right in Colmar, a town of 68,000 people and the capital of the Alsatian wine region. We loved being in Colmar at this time of year!

There are five Christmas markets in various parts of the medieval town, and storefronts and houses are beautifully decorated and illuminated after dark. The Petite Venise area on the canals of the river Lauch is especially magical.

Strasbourg is an easy 33 minute train trip from Colmar, and we spent a day there to enjoy its famous Christmas markets. There are eleven Christmas markets on Strasbourg’s Grande Île (the historic center), and we managed to visit all of them! I loved the elaborate decorations on so many of the stores and restaurants, usually on the 1st and 2nd floors. After dark, the lights in Strasbourg are incredible!

We also spent a day in the Alsatian countryside to visit local friends and the small villages we love so much. With its blend of French and German culture, Alsace may offer the quintessential Christmas experience… the architecture, decor, colors, and cuisine create a perfect setting for the holiday celebrations.

Plans for our 2017 Christmas Tour

Our European Christmas Experience trip will include much more than just markets and holiday traditions. We’ll also experience the richness of the culture, history, and cuisine in each of these unique areas.

We’ll explore each area with the help of outstanding local guides, visit world-class museums (with options based on personal interests), and of course enjoy the best of local cuisine. In Salzburg we’ll enjoy a Mozart dinner concert in a historic venue. In Munich we’re planning a cooking class. In Colmar, we’ll visit a family-owned winery for a wine tasting. Our stay in Colmar will also include a day in Strasbourg, which offers perhaps the most famous Christmas markets in Europe. In each area we’ll also take a day trip to the countryside to enjoy the smaller villages. And as on all of our trips, there will be a few surprises along the way!

The details of our 2017 European Christmas Experience tour will be announced in a few weeks, including the dates, itinerary, accommodations, and prices… more photos too! We’ll offer two 12-day tours in 2017. We’re thrilled to be returning for the holiday season next year and to offer travelers this very special experience involving three of our favorite areas of Europe. If you’re not already on our mailing list, be sure to sign up here to receive the announcement. We’d love to have you join us.

Best wishes for this holiday season and for the new year! Here’s to health, happiness, and memorable travel experiences in 2017!

I’ve been spending time in Europe during the Christmas season for almost 20 years. Europe is magical to me at any time of year, but especially at Christmas.  Many of our beloved Christmas traditions originated in Europe: the song Silent Night, nativity scenes, Christmas trees and ornaments, St. Nicholas, advent calendars, yule logs… and of course, Christmas markets.

We just returned from our European Christmas Experience, a 12-night trip based in Salzburg, Austria; Munich, Germany; and Colmar in Alsace, France… three very special places to enjoy the Christmas season and Christmas markets. The Christmas season provides a special ambiance for this unique European experience. Our group has the opportunity to enjoy numerous Christmas markets, but our trip includes much more than just the markets in these special places. We also enjoy walking tours with local guides, visits to museums and historical sites, meals featuring local specialties, day trips to the countryside and small villages, musical events in Salzburg, a cooking class in Munich, and a winery visit in Alsace. 

What to Expect at the Christmas Markets

The earliest Christmas markets began in Germany in the Middle Ages, spreading across the German-speaking regions to include Austria, Switzerland and Alsace in eastern France. Today the tradition of Christmas markets has expanded throughout Europe as people gather together to celebrate the birth of Christ, enjoy holiday traditions with family and friends, and shop for decorations and gifts. In German-speaking countries, the markets are called “Christkindlmarkt” or “Weihnachtsmarkt.” In France the markets are “Marchés de Noël.”

Christmas markets are typically outdoors, usually in central squares or along main thoroughfares, featuring booths or chalets selling a wide variety of merchandise. You’ll usually find holiday ornaments and decorations, nativity scenes, toys, gifts, handicrafts, gourmet food, takeaway food and much more. Most markets have numerous stands selling hot mulled wine (“glühwein” in German or “vin chaud” in French).

Markets may feature music and other entertainment, as well as special activities for children. Some markets feature only products made by local artisans or focus on food specialties. And there are “theme” markets, such as the medieval market our group visits in Munich.  The markets are especially magical after dark because of the lights.

Christmas markets typically run during the Advent season… the four weeks leading up to Christmas, though some markets begin a bit earlier.  In bigger cities and towns, the Christmas markets operate every day of the week.  In smaller towns and villages, Christmas markets may be held on just a few weekends or only on a special day.   

The most popular markets can get quite crowded.  The European Christmas markets are increasingly drawing tourists from around the world, on independent trips or tours.  But the majority of market-goers don’t come far.  Europeans travel from other areas to celebrate the season and enjoy the  surroundings and regional food.  And on weekends the Christmas markets are especially busy, filled with local people, students, and families.  

The decorations and lights add to the Christmas spirit. The decorations are especially elaborate in Alsace, where some communities have contests to recognize the best decorations. In the small walled village of Bergheim, there’s an annual “chemin des crèches,” where residents, businesses, and associations set up traditional and creative nativity scenes… more than 80 this year!  Most churches in Alsace also include a nativity scene at this time of year, sometimes including figurines that have been used for more than 100 years. 

Our Christmas Experience trip includes three countries (Austria, Germany and France), with bases in a big city (Munich), a small city (Salzburg), and a town (Colmar).  Each of these areas is unique and offers some meaningful differences in their Christmas markets. Regardless of how much of a “shopper” you are, we believe everyone will enjoy the festive Christmas season in Europe.  Whether you’re traveling on your own or in a group, our tips will help you ensure a fun and positive Christmas markets experience.

Tips for Enjoying the Christmas Markets

Planning Your Market Visits

• Plan a varied itinerary that includes other activities and places… not just the Christmas markets. Some people are surprised to find that regardless of the country, many Christmas markets are fairly similar…you’ll often find very similar merchandise.  Even the most serious shopper will find it difficult to focus only on Christmas markets on a “Christmas Markets” trip. We like a mix of cities, towns, villages and the countryside, and we also enjoy indoor cultural activities. 

• If crowds bother you, plan your itinerary carefully.  Avoid the most popular markets, especially on weekends and evenings. Instead, visit lesser-known markets or visit markets earlier on weekdays or during the daylight hours.
• When you first arrive at a larger place, stop by  the tourist office to get a map of the city or town, including the location of Christmas markets. Before your trip, you can also visit Tourist Office websites to learn more about the markets and the schedule for any special activities. 

• Book hotels early, as popular places can fill a year in advance.  I also suggest making lunch and dinner reservations in advance, as it can be difficult to “walk in” during the busy Christmas season, especially on weekends.

What to Pack, Wear and Carry

• Dress warmly!  It can be C O L D, especially when the sun goes down—which can be before 5:00 pm.  There might also be snow… which adds to the atmosphere but also can be challenging.  Bundle up in a warm coat, hat, scarf and gloves… or buy new ones there. You’ll find plenty of stands selling winter gear.  I bring silk long underwear for especially chilly days. 

• Wear comfortable walking shoes and warm socks.  Markets are usually in pedestrian areas in town or city centers and can cover a large area.  You’ll be doing some walking!
• Bring a lightweight, collapsible shopping bag to more easily carry and consolidate your market purchases.
• If you’re planning some serious shopping, pack a lightweight, collapsible duffel bag in your luggage. Use this to carry your Christmas market treasures home, ideally as your second carry-on item to protect fragile items.  You may want to bring bubble wrap and tape with you, as market sellers don’t always wrap breakables well for long-distance travel.

Shopping at the Markets

• If you see something you love—buy it!  Some markets are quite large, and it may be difficult to find a stall again if you pass something by the first time. 

• Learn a little of the local language so you can greet and thank the sellers.  Most sellers will speak enough English to answer basic questions about their merchandise, but they always appreciate your efforts to speak their language. 
• Be sensitive about picking something up, especially handmade or more-expensive items.  And pay attention if there are signs indicating “no photos.”

• Be careful navigating in crowded booths with glass or fragile items.  It can be easy to break something.
• Bring cash, especially small bills and one- and two-euro coins. Some stands selling more expensive items have credit card machines, but most can’t accept cards. You’ll definitely need cash and coins for small purchases, food, and drink.
• Take a break to enjoy a hot drink and a snack of local specialties, either at a market stand or in a nearby cafe. Hot wine stands usually serve drinks in colorful souvenir mugs.  You pay a deposit you can get back if you don’t want to keep the mug.  You can also use your mug for refills.  Non-alcoholic hot drinks like hot chocolate or hot fruit punch (“kinderpunsch”) are usually available.

Safety and Security

• Don’t be surprised if you see armed guards at some markets, an unexpected contrast to the festive atmosphere.  They’re there to ensure your security. 
• Always be very careful with your billfold and purse in crowds, especially after dark.  If you use a backpack, carry it in front of you.  Leave your passport at the hotel. 
• Handle your cash very carefully. Don’t accidentally flash lots of money when people are nearby.  Carry small bills and coins in your pocket for easy access.

We’ll return for our next European Christmas Experience, December 2 – 14, 2019. Our 2019 trip will follow a similar 12-night itinerary to our 2018 trip:  four nights each beginning in Salzburg, Austria; then traveling to Munich, Germany; and ending in Colmar in Alsace, France.  You can leave the itinerary planning and logistics to us, as you get to know the best of each of these areas and explore the Christmas markets. 

We still have a few spots open in our 2019 trip. See our website for more information about this trip-of-a-lifetime…. we’d love to have you join us!  

Salzburg is the second largest city in Austria. It has a population of 150,000 people. It is a picturesque city with narrow streets, wide squares, colourful houses, castles, palaces, churches, gardens and fountains. It lies between tall mountains and the Salzach River flows through it, laying out a beautiful backdrop for a beautiful city of baroque-style buildings with towers and spires. Thanks to its incredible architecture, the old centre of the city has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the cities archbishops hired the best artists and craftsmen to design the city in a style similar to Rome, so Italian influence can be seen in the city. Salzburg isn’t nicknamed Rome of the North for nothing.

Salzburg is close to the border with Germany, so it also serves as a good starting point for trips to south Germany.

The city centre is small and compact, allowing one to walk on foot between the city’s famous tourist attractions.

Salzburg is also famous as the birthplace of the famous classical composer, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

You will find things related to Mozart in every corner (besides the delicious chocolates named after him): Mozart square (Mozartplatz), with a statue of the composer at its centre; Mozarteum music academy; the house where he grew up; and of course, the Mozart museum. His music serves as a core component of almost every musical event that takes place in the city, which is known for its many music festivals. The most famous of its festivals is the Salzburger Festspiele, which started in 1920 and has been attracting music fans from all over the world since.
Another important musical event for which the city is famous is the musical The Sound of Music, one of the most-viewed movies in history. Many scenes in the movie were filmed in Salzburg. Today you can take a guided tour through the city around sites relevant to the movie, watch a dinner show based on songs from the movie, or watch a marionette show of The Sound of Music (details later in the article).
Alongside its rich history and classic culture, Salzburg is also a lively modern city known for its excellent coffee shops, its many restaurants, and its great clubs, shops, theatres, galleries, and museums.

The most famous street in the city, also known as a successful shopping area, is the pedestrian mall of Getreidegasse. This is a beautifully designed narrow street where every little detail is wonderfully stylised. Even the McDonalds sign is stylised appropriately. This street is considered one of the most beautiful shopping areas in Austria. Even if you don’t like shopping, I recommend wandering through here. The buildings in this street are tall, narrow and crowded together. Between the buildings are roofed passageways (mostly full of shops and galleries) and lovely courtyards. Building number 9 on the street is the house Mozart grew up in, which nowadays houses the Mozart museum (more on this later).
In the centre of Salzburg are beautiful piazzas which are a treat to wander through. The largest one is Residenzplatz, at the centre of which is an impressive fountain with statues of horses, dolphins and characters from Roman mythology. At the eastern end of the square is the new Residenz building, which today houses the regional government offices. A hundred years after its initial construction, a bell tower was added to the building – the glockenspiel. It features 36 bells which play Mozart music three times a day: at 7AM, 11AM, and 6PM. From the square you can take 20-25 minute horse carriage tours through the old town. Another major square is Mozartplatz, featuring a statue of the famous composer at its centre. This square also has a tourist information centre. A short walk away is the old market square, or Alter Markt, where for hundreds of years the city market was held. The square has a row of pastel-coloured buildings from the 17th century. At its centre is a statue of Saint Florian. Another one of the city’s major squares is Domplatz.

More tourist information about Salzburg can be found here and at the tourist information centre in Mozartplatz.
A Salzburg card gives you a one-day pass to the main tourist attractions of the city, as well as free use of the city’s public transport. You can easily get to the city in a private vehicle and park in one of the city’s many parking lots. A map of the city’s parking lots can be found here. You can also park in one of the free-to-use parking lots in the city’s suburbs off the freeway and get to the city centre via public transport.
If you love wandering around beautiful streets, shops, gardens and castles and you are not pressed for time, the best way for you to see the city is to walk all around the old town on foot.
If you don’t have as much time, you can take a bus tour around the major tourist attractions. Some tours that are especially nice are ones themed around The Sound of Music. Several companies offer tours between the various filming locations of the movie around the city. The two major companies that offer this are Panorama Tours and Bob’s Tours. More sporty people can join Fraulein Maria’s Bicycle Tour.

The Stadtbus, Salzburg’s city bus, goes to all of the city’s major tourist attractions. There are ticket offices at the train station and on 4th Schrannengasse Street. Salzburg Card holders can ride the bus for free.
If you’d like to see the city from a different viewpoint, take a guided boat tour on the Salzach River running through the centre of the city.

 Salzburg Stadt Schiff-Fahrt offers different boat tours in the city and around it. The shortest tour is an hour long and it is free for Salzburg Card holders.
I recommend spending at least one day in this beautiful city in order to see all of the main attractions in the old town combined with Hellbrunn Palace.
If you would like to visit more sites, such as museums, the zoo and the cable car near the city, go on a Sounds of Music tour or participate in festival events, give it a full two days.

Hellbrunn Palace

A true children’s favourite in the city is Hellbrunn Palace and its water tricks.
This is a baroque-style palace built in the 17th century at the foot of the Hellbrunn Mountains as a summer home for Bishop Markus Sittikus. The bishop, who was rich and had a good sense of humour, wanted to create a unique place where he could toy with his guests. The palace, built in only three years, is located in a big park with beautiful gardens, not far from the zoo. You will get an amusing guided tour of the place, during which the guide will activate a series of hidden fountains and other amusing water-operated tricks, getting visitors wet and keeping them guessing about where the next spray of water will come from. This is how the bishop pranked his highly esteemed visitors back in the day.

Many of the fountains aren’t hidden and are very impressive and beautiful (many of them designed with roman mythology in mind), but some are hidden in bushes, flowers, and rather innocent-looking statues… The bishop also built a small theatre of 256 dolls, all operated by water pressure. After the tour you can walk around the beautiful gardens independently.
Here, too, scenes of the Sound of Music were filmed.
The palace is located 8km south of the centre of Salzburg.

A week of unforgettable family attractions in Salzburg and Tyrol.
We’ve picked nice vacation apartments for you at a great location near the charming town of St. Johann in Tyrol. Out of there, you can go on daily star trips in the two most popular family destinations in Austria without having to change lodging throughout your trip.
Self catering apartments fitted with a fully equipped kitchenette with dishwasher, and cable TV. Each has a private bathroom.

The apartments are near the holiday town of St. Johann in Tyrol, at the heart of the Kitzbuheler Alpen area. These famous mountains, which in the winter attract many skiers, are a lovely destination to visit in the summer as well. They have endless trails for hiking and biking out in nature, beautiful viewpoints, restaurants with enormous balconies on the mountaintops and plenty of entertainment options for kids.
I recommend getting the Kitzbuheler summer card which includes free rides in 29 different summer lifts that belong to 13 different companies, as well as entry to the amusement parks at the tops of the mountains. The card also includes discounts of %25-%50 to 34 other family attractions, all a short drive away from your holiday apartment.

Select sites included in the price of the summer card:

♦ Sommerrodeln alpine slide at St. Johann in Tyrol

♦ Wildpark Aurach animal park

♦ Panorama Badewelt pool complex in St. Johann

♦ Alle fiebern mit Timoks Alm adventure trail

♦ Kaiserbad water park

♦ The enchanted forest of Juppi Zauberwald

You can also visit copper and silver mines in this area, as well as a new and unique dinosaur park called Triassic Park.

A few minutes away you can enjoy active vacationing for the whole family: hiking trails between forests and lakes, biking trails, horseback riding, rafting in rivers, boating in lakes, tubing, adventure parks, mini golfing, water parks, and more.
Entry to many of the attractions in nearby Salzburg is free to people holding a Salzburgerland Card. It allows for free entry into 40 pools, lakes and hotsprings, 40 different museums, 25 cable cars, dozens of entertainment facilities, castles, nature sites and animal parks and a full day of enjoying the best of Salzburg city.
Proximity to the German border allows for day trips to excellent tourist attractions in south Bavaria, such as King Ludwig’s castles, Alpamare water park, Eagle’s Nest, Konigssee, boating in lake Chiemsee, visiting Munich, and more.

Another lovely experience is visiting an Austrian supermarket, which you will find not far from your place of lodging. Buy excellent Austrian cheese, pastries and chocolates and feast like kings day and night. The area also has some great family restaurants, where every child will find something they like, from the famous wiener schnitzels to delicious pizzas (thanks to neighbouring Italy’s influence).
Festivals take place in Tyrol and Salzburg every summer – Music, dancing, folklore and film festivals.
It’s important to mention that the cost of a family holiday in Austria is lower than in any other destination in Europe, thanks to the huge discounts given to kids everywhere (children under 5 pay nothing in most places and kids 6-15 years old usually pay half price). Additionally, most attractions have excellent family discounts.

Suggestions for star trips in Salzburg:

Eisriesenwelt ice caves – the largest and most impressive ice cave in Europe. 

Durenberg Salt Mines, and near them, the longest alpine slides in Austria, Keltenblitz Toboggan Slide.
Karkogel alpine slide in Abtenau.

Helbrunn Castle – a castle known for its water tricks.
A visit to the beautiful city of Salzburg: taking the cable car up to the fortress, touring the old city, the old market square and the pedestrian mall, walking along the river, and seeing mirabell garden. A trip inspired by The Sound of Music.
Grosglockner – the tallest mountain in Austria, reachable by a scenic toll road.
Visiting Hohen Werfen Castle and watching a show of birds of prey
Visiting the old town of Hallstatt, boating in its lake and visiting its chilling Bone House.
Visiting the lovely little towns of St. Wolfgang and Sankt Gilgen, riding a steamboat in the nearby lake and going up the historic cable car.
Krimml waterfalls, the tallest waterfall in Austria.
Kitzsteinhorn Glacier in Kaprun – a summer skiing destination with plenty of snow-related activities that can be reached by a chain of three cable cars which overlook beautiful views.
The Alpine reservoirs in Kaprun – a fascinating guided tourin an alpine dam in the mountains, reachable by a huge funicular.
Liechtenstein Gorge and Lammerklamm Gorge – beautiful hiking trails inside deep canyons along a river and on wooden bridges.
Freizeitpark amusement and safari park
Lamprechtshohle Cave – the deepest cave in the world available for tourists to visit.
A hike on wooden platforms along a winding river in Seisenberg Gorge.

Suggestions for star trips in Tyrol:

♦ A visit to Innsbruck, Tyrol’s capital, going up to the Golden Roof, going up to the Innsbruck city tower to see the view, visiting Hofburg castle, the bell museum, the alpine zoo and the city’s ski ramp.

♦ A visit to Swarovski Crystal Worlds

♦ A trip along Europabrucke, or Europe’s Bridge, the tallest bridge in Europe. It is one of the world’s engineering wonders. You can cross it on foot and admire it and its height.

♦ Kufstein Castle – a well-fortified medieval castle built on a cliff.

♦ AirRofan, near lake Achensee – a unique four-person alpine flight down a long cable at 85km/h.

♦ Leutasch Spirit Gorge – a walk along this impressive gorge, partly on hanging bridges, partly inside the gorge and partly through a forest.

♦ Aurach Wildlife ParkThe biggest and best open museum in Tyrol, Museum Tiroler Bauernhofe, near the village of Kramsach.